The Mech-Fossil may move around slightly — some movement is expected. The fossil is firmly held in place by a set screw in the bottom bracket. Gently twist or tilt the cast fossil to straighten it within the fame.

If and only if you feel the fossil can easily slide out of the frame, then you can VERY GENTLY tighten that set screw using a 1.5mm hex key. WARNING: If you tighten this hex screw, BE CAREFUL not to over-tighten or you could crack the fossil casting!

You should use a very soft duster to dust both the fossil and the frame. You can use a slightly damp cloth to wipe both the fossil and the acrylic frame. Be careful not to use abrasives or they could scratch the acrylic frame backing or the fossil.

For the actual fossil, I use vintage electronics and mostly 35mm camera parts. Other parts come from typwriters, sewing machines, motors, and various electronics. The fossils are meticulously arranged and then cast in a polyester resin. That cast undergoes surface cleanup and then the fossil is coated in a flexible, strong polymer resin coating. The frames are laser-cut plywood and acrylic with hand-tooled walnut brackets.

I am currently not changing out frames. What you see pictured is what you'll get. I may explore colored frame options in the future. Please contact me if you want to vote on this. Thank you!

If you have any questions about custom orders or commissioning a number of Mech-Fossils, please email me at info@lextalkingtonart.com. I currently personally respond to all email in a timely fashion. Thank you!

Probably, yes! If you have vintage electromechanical objects (broken or working) that you would like to give away or sell, please reach out to info@lextalkingtonart.com and we can discuss.

I am particularly interested in 35mm cameras, 8mm/16mm cameras
and projectors dating from the 1920s up to the early 1980s.